The ribbon is one of the most ubiquitous symbols of femininity present in our culture. From the time we were children drawing stick figure girls, it was with a triangle dress and a bow on the head. In a 2021 study done by the Korean Ministry of Education, subjects were made to interact with computer-generated “agents” that discussed a variety of topics. The agents had identical robotic faces, with the distinction being that one had a ribbon on its head, and the other did not. The study found that the ribbon triggered gendered stereotypes, and the agent with the ribbon was seen as more competent in “feminine” disciplines such as psychology, and less competent in “masculine” areas such as finance.
How did an item so innocuous become one of the most potent embodiments of femininity? Let us travel backward through time, looking at important moments in which the ribbon has appeared, and what it has meant.
In recent years, personal style among women has seen a shift back to the traditional. If you have spent any time on social media over the past few months, you are likely to have encountered a good deal of lace, ribbon, babydoll collars, and bows. This style is being labeled “coquette” a term used to refer to a flirtatious woman, and is the latest in a long trend of styles and aesthetics that are imagining and reimagining femininity in various contexts.
The ribbon is a staple of the coquette style, signifying not only femininity, but youth, innocence, and a girlish quality. This style has been around for a number of years, albeit under a previous name that (questionably) paid reference to Vladimir Nobokov’s novel about a certain twelve-year-old girl. The term coquette also has a literary lineage, bringing to mind Hannah Webster Foster’s 1797 novel The Coquette, which ironically, was a cautionary tale about women straying from the predetermined path of marriage and children.